Raising Chickens for Eggs

Information on Raising Chickens for Eggs

Raising Chickens for Eggs

Posted by admin on Jan-17-2010
Welcome to Raising Chickens for Eggs. This site is dedicated to helping people raise chickens in their own back yard so that they can produce great tasting nutritious eggs from happy healthy hens.

Happy Healthy Hens

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Raising Chickens

Posted by admin on Dec-12-2014

Raising Chickens

1. IS IT LEGAL

 

It is very important when you start out raising chickens for eggs to make sure that you are allowed to keep chickens in your backyard. You will need to check with your local authorities to make sure that you are able to keep chickens and see what restrictions they may have. i.e. some councils will not allow you to have roosters but will allow hens.

The reason why this is important is because you don’t want to go to all the trouble of setting up your chickens only to find that you are breaking the laws in your area. If you don’t check with your local authority then you may run the risk of prosecution.

Roosters are not allowed in some cities.

2. CHICKS OR CHICKENS

Another important consideration when raising chickens for eggs is whether you raise your chickens from eggs i.e hatch them yourself or whether you buy them as baby chicks and raise them. You can also buy chickens that are ready to lay. For those who are new to raising chickens I would recommend buying chickens that are ready to lay.

One, you don’t have to wait long for your chickens to start laying and two, the older chickens are not as vulnerable as the young chicks and are much more likely to survive. It’s critical that you buy from a reputable supplier because the health of the laying hens is important for their egg production and also makes it easier for you to care for them.

3. CHICKEN COOPS

You don’t have to have an expensive chicken coop for your chickens. There are many ready made chicken coops for sale out there but it is really not too hard to build your own. If one of your motivations for raising chickens for eggs is saving money then buying an expensive chicken coop will defeat that purpose.

There are many books available on building your own chicken coop with easy to follow plans using cheap easily available materials. All you need to do is decide how many chickens you want, (I would recommend 2 to 4 chickens for a city backyard.) and make sure that you find a chicken coop design that will suit that amount of chickens. The less space you have available means the less chickens you should have.

 

4. HOW MANY CHICKENS

Instead of complicating raising chickens for eggs by having a huge flock, concentrate your efforts on a small number of chickens. Most chickens in full production will lay an egg each day. If you have too many chickens you may find it difficult to use all the eggs that they will produce.

I have found that having 2 to 4 chickens will give you plenty of eggs for your family and friends and you will not be overwhelmed with eggs that you cannot use. Concentrate your efforts by only having a few hens and you will find that raising chickens for eggs is not as hard as you may think.

5. FEEDING CHICKENS

Chickens need to have a place to roost at night which is protected by the weather and they need to be fed and their water checked every day. They also need a nesting box to lay their eggs in which you put in your chicken coop. If you have children, you will find that they love collecting eggs as it is a lot of fun and you can also get them to help with feeding and checking the water as well.

Chickens need a variety of foods to produce great tasting eggs and the best way to achieve this is to feed them all your kitchen food scraps. Chickens will eat just about anything and what they are doing is transforming your food scraps into fantastic garden fertilizer. Chickens will also benefit from eating layer pellets or grain to maintain their egg production and will quickly turn any weeds and garden waste you have into fertilizer as well.

 

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Chicken Coop Guides Review

Posted by admin on Feb-17-2014

Chicken Coop Guides is a downloadable guide to building your own Chicken Coop.

John White the author of this guide is a professional architect by trade. He explains the process without using overly technical terms and phrases so that the average individual can easily follow his instructions.

He offers easy to follow Chicken Coop Plans, Complete Chicken Raising Guides and Weekly Chicken Raising tips to all his members.

There are 19 plans on offer and you get a complete material list that you can print out and take to the hardware store. They can prepare the materials exactly for you which makes it so much easier to put together.

The plans are computer drawn with step by step instructions, cross sectional diagrams and full color illustrations. 

 

This Coop was made by one of their customers. This is one of the larger coops but there are other simpler plans for smaller flocks if you only want two or three chickens.

If you purchase these plans you are entitled to several bonuses. You have access to forums with over a thousand active users where you can discuss your experiences with other like minded people. You also get access to instructional videos that show the process of building a Chicken Coop. Plus you receive regular tips about looking after your chickens.

The information in this guide is presented logically and in a format that makes building your coop easy. Instead of struggling with measurements, materials lists etc. it is much easier to build a coop if a professional architect has already developed the plans for you and given you a step by step guide on how to go about the process.

To find out more about Chicken Coop Guides by John White  Click Here

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Pre – Made Chicken Coops

Posted by admin on Jan-22-2014

If you are not a handy person and don’t want to build your own chicken coop, you may want to buy a pre-made chicken coop. When you add up the cost of materials and your time it often works out cheaper than designing and building your own. Most of the pre-made chicken coops available have everything that your chickens will need such as roosts and nesting boxes. They often have handy design features that you may not have thought of such as storage areas. These Coops below are a good cross section of what is currently available and offer good value.

 

 

Pawhut Deluxe Backyard Chicken Coop / Hen House w/ Outdoor Run

This coop is a high quality larger size chicken coop which is made of fully treated and

grooved wood. Coated with water based preservative. Coming with a two section

nesting box for egg laying. This coop can be wide opened to be a “fresh air school”, and

closed to make a controlled-environment coop. This coop is well designed with one

Living House, a two section Nesting Box and a Backyard Run. 

This Chicken Coop is perfect for 2 to 4 Chickens and has received very good reviews

from those who have already purchased it. It is sturdy and the price is very reasonable.

 

Click Here to find out more..

 

 

Wood Chicken Coop Hen House with Run 

 

This chicken coop gives your chickens the ability to move seamlessly from a comfortable enclosure to an outdoor protected space. The indoor facility includes multiple roosting poles and a large nesting box that is able to hold multiple chickens. A small entrance with a travel ramp allows your chickens to run in and out easily, without being wide enough to let the elements in when the weather is bad. This attaches to a wide open fenced enclosure that allows them plenty of room to move around. The roof is split into multiple segments so the roof may be peaked, closed or completely opened up. This is a perfect unit for someone who has a few chickens, but still needs to minimize the space that the coop will be using. This Coop is suitable for 4 to 6 Chickens.

Click Here ……

 

 

Precision Pet Cape Cod Chicken Coop


The Cape Cod can comfortably house up to four rabbits or chickens. The Precision Pet Cape Cod Chicken Coop or Rabbit Hutch provides a quality shelter that you and your pets will love. The two front doors provide easy access to the shelter’s interior whether you need to reach your pets or simply perform routine maintenance. The nesting box with roosting bar is ideal if you are using the Cape Cod as a large outdoor chicken coop. A removable pan under the retreat makes cleaning easy whether you keep rabbits or chickens. This shelter is made with high quality fir wood. An internal ramp provides pets with easy access between the raised retreat and the spacious run where your pets can stretch their legs. Zinc-coated wire mesh encloses the run but provides ample ventilation. That way, whether you use the Cape Cod as a premium rabbit hutch or chicken coop, your pets will always be protected from predators and the elements.The Precision Pet Cape Cod Chicken Coop or Rabbit Hutch is designed for easy maintenance and assembly.

Click Here to find out more….

 

 

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Best Pre Made Chicken Coop

Posted by admin on Dec-22-2013

I have been looking around for the best pre made chicken coop I can find for a reasonable price and I have found that a lot of them are flimsy and not of good quality.  However I just came across this plastic Chicken Coop available from Amazon which has received rave reviews. It is perfect for someone who wants to start raising chickens now. Apparently it only takes 30 minutes to an hour to slot together and it is water proof and easy to clean.

 

Formex Snap Lock Large Chicken Coop Backyard Hen House 4-6 Large 6-12 Bantam


Specifications and Features

  • No tools required
  • Impact resistant
  • Ultraviolet resistant
  • Water resistant
  • Chemical resistant
  • Maintenance free
  • Removable litter tray
  • Larger Adjustable ventilation
  • Easy access for egg collection
  • Insulating, double-wall construction
  • Predator resistant, lockable access
  • Self contained and light weight
  • Four nesting spots with removable dividers
  • Three 36″ roosts
  • Room for twelve standard breed hens

I have never seen a pre-made chicken coop receive so many positive reviews from so many people. I am not usually into plastic but it does make sense when you think about it. If this is a Chicken Coop you may be interested in take a look by clicking the link below:  

CLICK HERE

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What is the best way to clean chicken eggs?

Posted by admin on Sep-9-2013

Question:  What is the safest way to clean manure and dirt off of the shell of fresh eggs? I am just using warm water and a clean rag.

 Answer:  You can wash your eggs in water only if you plan to use them right away. By putting the eggs in water, you  wash away the bloom from the egg, a protective layering that prevents bacteria from entering the egg. Therefore, if you want to store your eggs for use later, you should not put them in water. If you must wash the eggs, use HOT running water. A good idea is to get a soft brush and brush the dirt and manure from the shell.

 

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My Chickens Have Stopped Laying Eggs.

Posted by admin on Sep-1-2013

The most common reasons for chickens to stop laying eggs are decreasing day length, moulting, disease, broodiness, poor nutrition, and stress.

1. Moulting

Moulting is a natural process that allows the hen to replace old worn feathers and at the same time rejuvenates her oviduct the organ that “makes” eggs. This allows the hen to increase its rate of egg production and produce higher quality eggs when it returns to lay. With the moult the hen puts all of  her energy into feather growth leaving little for egg production. Every year I have first time chicken owners contacting me and asking why the hens that have been laying all year have suddenly stopped.

 Molting Chickens

2. Decreasing Day Length

Natural moulting is a seasonal process related to changes in day length. Once the daylight hours begin to decline this will trigger moulting and consequently your hens will stop laying eggs for a few weeks. This usually occurs in the fall after chicks have fledged.

Often your whole flock will stop laying at the same time. Commercial growers use artificial lighting to prevent their hens moulting all at once and consequently they may often moult at any time. 

3. Stress

There are many causes of stress, from predators hanging around or even a loud noise which can cause the hens to stop laying. You may have moved them into a new environment which is definitely stressful for them. Not only do they have to get used to their new home they also have to establish a new pecking order.

Do everything you can to make their life comfortable and they should reward you and start laying eggs.

 Healthy Chickens

4. Broody Hens

Some hens of certain breeds are prone to becoming broody. This means that they will try to incubate their eggs to make them hatch. When this happens they stop laying eggs. They are more likely to become broody if they are allowed to accumulate eggs in a nest. The hens will sit on the eggs and get very annoyed when you try to take the eggs from the nest.

To avoid this situation it is best to collect the eggs at least once a day which will prevent the hen from building up a clutch of eggs. This is also important to preserve the freshness and quality of eggs for human consumption. 

5. Disease

Diseases will stop your hen laying even if the symptoms they have are not obvious. Keep an eye on the hen and if any disease symptoms appear you will need to treat the disease before your hen begins laying again.

  Lovely fresh eggs.

6. Nutrition

Hens need a balanced and adequate diet to maintain egg production. Many backyard flock owners don’t realize how much calcium a hen needs to produce eggs. To maintain egg production you need to feed your flock a prepared layer ration or at least provide some source of calcium. e.g ground limestone or oyster shell that birds can eat when they need to. You should be able to source layer ration or oyster shell at your local feed store. 

7. Age

Hens can live for many years. As with other species an aging hen will eventually lose its ability to be reproductive and will stop producing eggs. Protect your hens from the elements and predators. Make sure that their hen house is clean and well maintained and make sure that they have a constant supply of nutritious food and water. This will result in high egg production and many quality eggs for your family to enjoy.

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Do you need a rooster for your hens to lay eggs?

Posted by admin on Aug-7-2013

Question:

Do you need a Rooster for your hens to lay eggs?

Answer:

No you do not need a Rooster for your hens to lay eggs.  Hens will lay eggs without a rooster but if you want your eggs to be fertilised so that they can produce chicks then you will need a rooster. 

If you are planning on having a small backyard flock then it is best not to have a rooster as they can be noisy (crowing at daybreak) and some of them can get quite aggressive. For those of you that want to breed chicks from your hens then a rooster is necessary.

 


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Chicken Feeders

Posted by admin on Mar-25-2013

Chicken Feeders

Having an automatic Chicken Feeder that hangs from the ceiling is a really good idea for the grain or layer pellets you will be feeding your chickens to keep them laying. This feed is the most expensive part of looking after your chickens so you don’t want it contaminated with chicken manure. You can buy a relatively cheap hanging feeder or you can buy or make a treadle feeder which although more expensive will save you from food wastage. The feeders below are perfect for small back yard flocks.They are at a very competitive price and they guarantee that your chickens will get fed even when you are not there.


HANGING POULTRY FEEDER


Miller 9112 12lb. Galvanized Hanging Poultry Feeder


This hanging feeder is made of heavy galvanized steel, is strong and will last a long time unlike the plastic versions. It has a 12 lb hanging feeder tube with a 12 feeder pan.It has rolled edges for safety. 

Click Here to see more …..


TREADLE CHICKEN FEEDER 

Chicken Feed can be the most expensive part of raising chickens. Having a treadle automatic feeder will save you lots of money in wasted and stolen feed. Wild birds and rodents will come and steal your hens feed, not to mention the wastage that occurs when they stand in their food and contaminate it with their droppings.
This is how it works:
The hens stand on the treadle and the lid opens to allow them to feed. It is easy to train your chickens and once one learns the others quickly follow. All I did was put a small weight on the treadle which kept the lid slightly open.  The first hen to notice the food will step up onto the treadle and the lid will open. Once they have learnt what to do you simply remove the weight. I will not go back to anything else now that I have tried one of these. Although they tend to be a lot more expensive to buy than other feeders they soon pay for themselves with the amount of feed that you save.

Treadle Feeder for US Readers


Holds up to 36lbs. of feed, fill the hopper easily with hinged lid. Only takes 12oz weight required to open feeder. Feeder keeps feed clean and fresh, it prevents food from attracting wild birds and rodents which may also carry diseases and parasites. This product has a weather-resistant wood finish to protect the feeder from water and sun damage. Easy to Assemble and low maintenance.


Treadle Feeder for UK readers.

10kg Treadle feeder for Poultry with anti waste grill kit

 So if you are interested in saving money on your chicken food and stopping the waste, check it out.

 


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Chicken Coops

Posted by admin on Feb-11-2013

The design of your Chicken Coop is very important. There are so many styles and designs of chicken coops, it can all get very confusing. Do you buy one, and if you do what is a good design? If you make your own, how do you know you have everything you need to keep your chickens healthy. A good way to start is to make sure your chicken coop fits the basic principles outlined below. Whether it is the most luxurious or the most basic chicken coop you won’t go wrong if you follow these tips.

A chicken coop can be very simple as this mobile coop above.

1. Space.

If you don’t have much space then you need to restrict your flock to two or three chickens. Chickens need between one and two square foot each in their chicken coop and between two to four feet each in their chicken run.

Bantams need less space and the larger breeds need more, so the size of your hens does matter. If you don’t take this into consideration you risk your chickens getting diseases and fighting each other. If you can let your chickens roam during the day in a large enclosed area then all the better. Just make sure that they are locked up in their coop at night.

2. Predators

This is so important as chickens are extremely vulnerable to all types of predators. From dogs and cats to wild and feral animals that may live in your area, they will all love to get a hold of your chickens. Foxes especially love chickens and because they can climb fences, the coop must be completely enclosed and be secure along the bottom, so that predators cannot dig their way in.

Here is an example of a very secure chicken coop and run, totally enclosed with bird aviary wire.

3. Protection from heat and cold

If you live in a cold climate having insulation or a light may be required in your coop to keep your chickens warm. Recent studies have proven that chickens will lay much more consistently if they are kept warm than those who are not This may sound a bit too expensive for some people so a cheaper way to get around this is to buy a heap of  straw bales amd when winter comes place these around the outside of your coop. This will prevent drafts and also insulate your coop really well. If you live in a hot climate your coop will benefit from being either shaded by a tree or by a building.

4. Ventilation.

Fresh air is vital so along the top of your coop have a thin strip of bird wire that allows the coop to receive fresh air but not cause a direct draught onto your chickens. Do not have your vents down the bottom of your coop as they will create a draught directly onto your chickens. Toxic fumes can build up inside an unventilated chicken coop from the chicken manure so this is very important and is something that can often be overlooked.

This Chicken Coop has excellent ventilation at the top of the coop with bird wire making it secure.

5. Flooring

If you are only going to have a few chickens and you have decided on a mobile chicken coop then the floor can be just the ground the coop is placed on. As you will be moving the coop around the chickens will be quite happy with the new grass they get every time they are moved. A dirt floor covered in straw or hay is also acceptable in a fixed coop but it has the disadvantage of allowing rats and mice in and  can be difficult to keep clean. A concrete floor is the best and will keep out rodents and is easy to clean. Straw or hay is still a good idea to put on the floor as it soaks up the manure and apart from providing warmth the combination of straw and manure produces fantastic compost.

This fantastic chicken coop has a concrete floor, bricks around the bottom so no predators can dig their way in, great looking nesting boxes and a roost.

6. Nesting Boxes

Nesting Boxes for your Chicken Coop need to be at least a foot long by a foot deep. Wooden boxes are the best but they could also be made out of plastic if necessary. Place them at least a foot off the ground and if necessary have a wooden ramp so the chickens can get into them. To make it easy to collect the eggs you may want to make a box with a hinged lid that you can open from the outside of the coop. This means that you don’t have to go inside the coop to collect the eggs. This can save you a lot of time and means that your children can collect the eggs without letting the chickens out. Put some straw, hay, woodshavings or even shredded paper in the boxes so that the chickens are comfortable and the eggs don’t crack.

These nesting boxes have a hinged lid on the outside of the coop so that you can collect the eggs without going into the chicken coop.

7. Roosts

Chickens roost at night so you need to provide them with a roost to sleep on. Roosts are best made of wood and can be made from small tree branches, wooden poles, dowel, or even an old wooden ladder. Just make sure that the chickens are able to hang on with their feet and that they can sit there comfortably. Metal roosts are not suitable as they can get freezing cold in winter and very hot in summer.

8. Feeders

Automatic feeders are very handy, or you may choose to scatter the hens food daily in their run when you collect their eggs. This has its advantages as there is little waste. If you are going to buy an automatic feeder you may want to place it in the chicken coop to minimise rodents who will love to share your chickens food and also the local bird population who won’t be able to resist a free feed. For this reason I also like to use bird avairy wire rather than chicken wire as the aviary wire has much smaller holes and other birds won’t be able to get into your chicken coop. It is also good to hang your feeder from the ceiling about six inches from the ground. This also will reduce waste, discourage rodents and stop the chickens from scattering the food far and wide.

If you need a chicken feeder click on the link below.

Chicken Feeders

The Automatic Feeder hangs from the ceiling.

9. Waterer’s.

Fresh water is vital for  keeping your chickens healthy. They need their water checked daily especially in hot weather. You will need a bowl that is deep enough for the water not to heat up too quickly but shallow enough so that the chickens are able to reach it easily. It also has to be in something large enough so that they can’t tip it over. Having an automatic waterer is a good idea but you still need to regularly check that it is working properly and that your water source is reliable. Another hint if you are raising baby chicks. Their water bowl needs to be very shallow as they can drown if their bowl is too deep.

This automatic waterer has two nipples that release water when the chicken presses on it.

Your Chicken Coop should have a place for the birds to roost, good drainage, nesting boxes, a feeder, a waterer and enough space for the number of birds you are raising. You can have a permanent chicken coop. a mobile chicken coop, a premade chicken coop, a homemade chicken coop and they come in all shapes and sizes.

Click on this link for more Chicken Coop Designs.


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Coop Plans Review

Posted by admin on Sep-11-2012

Chicken Coop Plan Reviews

Chicken Coop Plans make it easier to build your own chicken coop from scratch. By following chicken coop plans you make sure that you are providing everything your chickens need for their new home and you are also creating something that is not an eyesore and will look attractive in your back yard. There are several Chicken Coop Plans ebooks out there and below I have picked out the three top selling ebooks that offer the best value for money. It is definitely worth the investment in one of these chicken coop plan ebooks as they can save you a lot of money in the long run. They not only tell you how and where to get the cheapest materials for building your chicken coop,  they also provide a lot of information and tips on how to look after and maintain your flock.

Introducing” Building A Chicken Coop”

 

Easy To Build Plans – Includes color step-by-step plans with scale diagrams and dimensions that anyone can follow Handy expert tips on flooring, roofing, walls, nesting boxes, windows, doors and perches
The focus of this ebook written by Bill Keene is on being well-prepared for your flock before they even arrive on your property. Keene ensures that you consider every issue before you spend any money on birds, feed or equipment.

He discusses which species are appropriate for your garden, what they should eat and more specifically, how you should house them. Anyone with basic do-it-yourself tools and a patch of land can follow his instructions.

The drawings and diagrams are easy to interpret and the lists of materials and tools needed are very helpful. Keene also appreciates the value of using recycled materials in your chicken coop to keep it  cheap and environmentally friendly.He also encourages responsible husbandry and if you follow his tips, your happy hens will be very productive.

He offers plans that cover a small chicken house that houses up to four chickens to one that can house up to 50. There are chicken tractor designs, double story designs, portable barn style designs plus an extra bonus book on how to build nesting boxes for free out of easily accessible material. This ebook offers more choices of chicken coop design than the others and is the most comprehensive.

To find out more about this ebook and read some more reviews and testimonials, Click Here….


The DIY Chicken Coop Guide
This DIY Guide will walk you through the step-by-step process of constructing a chicken coop and chicken run. You can easily do it for less then $100 if you do a little extra work in collecting materials, so saving of hundreds of dollars is possible.

Everything is broken down into  Easy to Follow Step-by-Step Instructions. This guide takes even the most difficult carpentry construction methods and breaks it down to simple and easy steps that even complete beginners can easily follow.

Step-by-Step pictures, diagrams, show you how everything is done. There is even a  Video Library  so you can see instructional videos relating to the chicken coop world.
They have even included a wood cutting diagram that allows you to pre-cut and pre-label all of your wood so that the guide is very simple to follow.

They have easy step-by-step designs for four categories of Chicken Coops (Small Midsize Large Portable).

Bonuses

Learn to talk Chicken A-Z

Learn Which Chicken Breed is best for your Lifestyle and Climate

How to Build an Incubator and Incubate your Chicks

How to Build a Chicken Brooder and the Requirements of Brooding Chicks

Informative and Helpful online videos

 

This ebook is also a fairly comprehensive guide that offers many choices of Coop Design plus a variety of sizes as well. They also offer a lot of other information on how to raise your chickens.

To find out more, Click Here……


Chicken Coop Video Guide

This guide by Dan Kennedy is fairly new. Not only do you get a written set of plans (so you can print them off and have them next to you while you build your coop), but you also get a video guide that shows you what to do at every step.
This is the only set of chicken coop blueprints on the net that includes both written plans and an easy step-by-step, no guesswork required video guide. You Get the Complete Plans for Two Chicken Coops.
Whether you want a starter coop for four chickens or a larger coop for up to eight chickens, you’ll get the plans you need to create the perfect coop: These coops include a front door, ramp, larger rear access door, perch, nest, and peaked roof! Also included with your purchase of the complete guide and videos is a free report that will show you how to get started looking after your new chickens!

This book and video series is well presented , easy to follow and offers good value.

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Incubators

Posted by admin on Aug-8-2012
Incubating Eggs

If you are planning on raising your chicks from eggs then you will need an incubator of some kind. Fertile eggs should hatch approximately 21 days after the hen has begun to sit on them. You can leave them with your broody hen to hatch or you can incubate them yourself using an incubator.

1. Heat up Incubator

You will need to get your incubator ready by heating it up and making sure that the temp is at 99.5 degrees Fahrenheit before you put your eggs in. You can buy an incubator that does not require you to turn the eggs or you can buy

one that does require you to turn them. Some people prefer to turn them themselves so that they are more involved with the process and can keep an eye on the eggs.

2. Position the Eggs

An incubating egg should be set in a normal position as it would if you laid it on a flat surface. The large end should be slightly higher than the pointed end.

3. Turning the Eggs
 
Turning the egg is essential in the early stages .but in the last 3 days of incubation when the chicks are preparing to hatch, do NOT turn the eggs.Keep an accurate count of the days so that you know when you can expect the chicks to hatch. During the early stages if they are not turned they may stick to the shell and become deformed. Turning the egg mimics what a mother hen would do naturally.
If you are going to turn them yourself, you need to mark them with a marker so that you know which side is which when you turn them. You need to turn the eggs at least 3 to 5 times a day .You can’t skip a day as this will affect the development of your chickens.
 
4. Moisture & Humidity
 
The incubator must have adequate moisture in it at all times. A pan of water in the incubator will keep the air nice and moist. Make sure it is continually topped up. As well as having a thermometer to check the temperature you need to be able to measure the humidity. This combined thermometer below is an example.
 
 

Click Here – Chaney Indoor Thermometer with Humidity

 
 
Temperature measuring range: +32°F to +122°F (0°C to +50°C) – Humidity range:20% to 95% RH
 
5. Incubators
 
An incubator keeps the eggs uniformly warm and moist, simulating the mother hen sitting on her eggs. If you’re going to buy one, there are lots of types and sizes and it will depend on the capacity you need, the features (auto-turning etc), and your budget! Below is a very economical incubator suitable for small backyard flocks.
 

 


 
 

7. Hatched Chickens

Chicks will survive up to 3 days without feed or water after they have hatched. The yolk of the egg provides enough nourishment for the transitional period from the time the bird hatches to when he is ready to search for food. In general chicks are taken from the incubator after 24 hours. No harm is done if they are not taken out for 48 hours after they hatch.
 
Making Your Own Incubator
 
Another alternative is to build your own incubator.  I recently found an ebook that gives you step by step instructions on video on how to build your incubator with cheap materials from the harware store. So if you are handy this could be a cheap alternative to buying a ready made one. The author claims that the hatch rate is superior to some of the bought incubators. If anyone has built their own incubator perhaps they could share their results with us.
 
 

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